Transform simple wood rounds into stylish rustic serving trays
By Carole Rothman
If you’re looking for a new rustic accent piece that is as functional as it is stunning, then consider creating a live-edge serving tray. I created this single-ring tray that can be attached to a stationary or rotating base to create a dramatic and unique decorative addition to any home!
Note: The matching serving bowls project can be found in fall issue (#84) of Scroll Saw Woodworking & Crafts.
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Getting StartedChoose a round between 5/8″ (1.6cm) to 3/4″ (1.9cm) thick, and 8″ (20.3cm) to 11″ (27.9cm) in diameter. Stabilize the bark by elevating the round and applying shellac gently but thoroughly to the rough outer surface. Use cyanoacrylate (CA) glue to reattach any pieces of bark that break loose. Sand both sides of the round progressively through the grits to 320 with an orbital sander. |
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Making the Rings
Step 1
| Draw the first cutting line. Choose the more attractive side for the inside of the bowl. Measure the diameter across the wood; do not include the inner bark. Since the round is unlikely to be truly circular, take several measurements to determine the largest diameter that will fit inside the bark area. Use this diameter to draw a circle on a sheet of paper. Cut the circle precisely and fold it sharply into quarters to create a template. Unfold the template. Position it on the round so that the wood surrounding the template is as evenly distributed as possible, and then secure it with small pieces of masking tape. Mark the center point with an awl and the endpoints of the fold lines with a pencil. Remove the template and connect the endpoints through the awl mark to create intersecting registration lines. Continue the lines to the outer edge of the bark. Place a compass at the center point and draw a circle with a diameter 1″ (2.5cm) smaller than the diameter of the template to create the first cutting line. Mark the top of the blank on the inner bark so it won’t be removed during sanding. |  |
Step 2
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Cut the first circle. Mark a drilling point with an awl where the cutting line intersects one of the registration lines. Use a shop-made angle guide (see Tip below) and a #56 drill bit to drill a blade-entry hole, drilling directly toward the center of the blank. Note: The drilling angle depends upon the wood thickness: use 31˚ for wood 3/4″ (1.9cm) thick; use 33˚ for wood 11/16″ (1.7cm) thick; and use 35˚ for wood 5/8″ (1.6cm) thick. Tilt the left side of the saw table down to the same angle. Use a #7 blade to cut clockwise around the circle to complete the first ring. Mark the top of the blank to correspond to the top mark on the ring, placing it about 1″ (2.5cm) from the edge. This piece is the base. |
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TIP: ANGLE GUIDESUse an angle guide made from a scrap of wood to drill a hole at a specific angle. This guide can also be used to set your saw table to the desired angle for the cut.
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Step 3
| Tilt the table of the belt sander to match the cutting angle. Set the base on the table and rotate it evenly to remove blade marks and cutting irregularities. When smooth, draw a pencil line around the circumference, halfway between the upper and lower faces, to serve as a reference point for the bevel. Increase the table tilt to 40˚ and bevel the bottom edge. You can keep the bevel small or extend it to the line. Use a 2″ (5.1cm) flexible pad sander to soften the bevel into a smooth curve, then sand the side progressively through the grits to 320, being careful to remove vertical scratch marks. Soften the bottom edge by hand. |
Step 4
| Shape the inside of the top ring. Establishing the contour at this stage makes it easier to complete shaping when the ring is glued into place. Be sure that the top and registration marks on the inner bark remain visible. Use a pneumatic drum and coarse-grit sleeve for rapid removal of wood from the upper inside edge, then switch to the round inflatable sander for greater control. Sand the lower edge into a smooth circle, then sand the entire ring with the fine and extra fine sleeves. Be careful not to dislodge bark on the outside of the ring. When rough shaping is complete, refine the surface with the medium-grit sleeve. Remove any fuzzies or pencil marks from the lower inside edge. |
Step 5
| Remove the registration marks from the base, leaving a 1″ (2.5cm) segment at each end. Place the ring on the base, aligning tops and registration line segments. Make a small locating mark on each line segment, 1/8″ (3mm) from the edge of the ring. Remove the ring; the locating marks should all be about the same distance from the outer edge of the base. Completely remove the line segments; leave only the locating marks. With the base on a flat surface, position the ring on top. Follow the instructions in the Gluing from Live-Edge Rounds section (see below) to check for and correct spaces. |
Step 6
| Mix glue size as directed in the Gluing from Live-Edge Rounds section (see below) and apply it to the gluing areas of the ring underside and the base. Then apply full strength glue to the base only, keeping it about 1/4″ (6mm) in from the orienting marks to minimize squeeze-out. Position the ring on the base. Apply weight by applying a granite tile or heavy flat board to secure the bond. After five minutes, remove the unit and invert it carefully onto the flat surface. Use a toothpick to clean up squeeze-out, but also check for and remove any squeeze-out on the surface of the base.
If you’re not using an additional base, move onto to finishing the tray. Apply shellac to the bark surrounding the first ring, and to the inner bark on the upper face. This will heighten the contrast between the bark and the wood. Sand the inner bark on the upper face lightly with 320-grit sandpaper, to reduce shine and remove any shellac from the wood. If you are applying a water-based or solvent-based finish, apply it to all areas of the tray, except the outer bark. Once dry, smooth the surface with 320-grit sandpaper. Apply additional coats as needed. Smooth the surface between coats with 320-grit sandpaper, 0000 steel wool, or a well-worn 4″ (10.2cm) 320-grit sanding mop; do not use steel wool with water-based finishes. If you’re using beeswax and mineral oil, apply it sparingly; let it dry for 15-30 minutes, then buff to a soft sheen. If more than one coat is required, wait 24 hours between each coat. I used three applications of beeswax and mineral oil for this bowl tray. |
Gluing from Live-Edge Rounds
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Adding a Wooden Base
| To add a wooden base, draw a circle about 2″ (5.1cm) smaller in diameter than the underside of the tray on a 3/8″ (1cm)-thick piece of matching wood. Cut the circle, sand the sides with a belt sander, soften the lower edge, and sand the piece progressively to 320 grit. Center the base on the underside of the tray; mark the gluing area and mask it with blue painter’s tape. Finish the tray and upper and side areas of the base as directed in Step 6, then glue the base into place, using downward pressure to secure the bond. |
Adding a Rotating Base
| I added a rotating base that could be screwed directly into the underside of the tray with #8 flat-head wood screws, drilling and testing the fit before applying the finish. Intended primarily for movable displays, this mechanism, available online, consists of two concentric 1/2″ (1.3cm)-wide rings, each containing four rubber feet wedged into countersunk holes. To screw it to the tray, you must first remove the feet from the inner ring. This is most easily done by drilling through the feet from the countersunk side. Use the largest drill bit that will fit; mine was 1/6″ (4mm) in diameter. Once complete, center the base on the underside of the tray. The countersunk side of the small ring should be facing you; secure the ring with small pieces of double-sided tape to prevent movement as you mark the holes. To ensure accuracy, I marked the center of each hole by inserting a #10 screw into the hole and tapping it with a hammer to create the drilling point. Once the holes are marked, remove the base and drill pilot holes with a 3/32″ (2.4mm) brad-point bit, drilling halfway through the wood’s thickness. |  |
Spacers
These are placed between the bottom of the tray and the rotating mechanism, allowing it to turn freely. Here are three options:
To determine screw length, measure the combined thickness of the mechanism and spacers and add half the thickness of the tray. Place the spacers over the pilot holes, position the mechanism on top, insert the screws and turn them in rotation just until tight. |
Materials
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Tools
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| About the Author |
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Carole Rothman of Pawling, N.Y., is a retired psychologist and college professor. She is also an award-winning cake decorator. Visit Carole online at scrollsawbowls.blogspot.com. You’ll find her books, Creative Wooden Boxes from the Scroll Saw and Scroll Saw Wooden Bowls: Revised & Expanded Edition, at foxchapelpublishing.com. |
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